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Like a large number of Kyoto cafes, Morris Cafe in Junkudo bookstore in the BAL building on Kawaramachi is a little schizophrenic. Its identity drifts somewhere between literary lounge, vinyl-philia and end-of-pier nautical, situated as it is in amongst the plethora of books, decorated in ships and lighthouses and with walls covered in 60’s record sleeves. Of Rice and Zen (or ORAZ to our friends) lays Morris Cafe on our metaphorical couch and asks it questions about its mother.

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For those of you who went shopping in the BAL building’s excellent Junkudo and managed to resist the urge to stock up on a year’s worth of artbooks, manga and Kyoto guides (your will is stronger than Of Rice and Zen’s, well done) Morris Cafe on the 8th floor has a great selection of books and magazines for you to peruse for free while you get your java fix.

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For those inclined to recline there are leather, sofa-style armchairs for you to sink into. On the other hand, if you are more interested in the view there are a selection of cosy tables for two by the window. If neither of those appeal and you just want to spread out and examine your new purchases there are several much larger tables on the left hand side as you enter.

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With the vintage Coke merchandise, the mini-sink built into the far wall and the 60s vinyl on loop the place has a kind of student vibe that belies its high-rent location. The Kyoto branch of Junkudo is spread over three floors of the BAL building and is a truly excellent source of reading material.

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It also houses one of Kyoto’s biggest selections of foreign books on the 7th floor. If you’re planning to take the Japanese Language Proficiency Test during your stay in Kyoto, you’re almost certain to end up browsing the textbooks here alongside fellow kanji-addled foreign students.

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It should also be noted that Kyoto establishments can be in the habit of bumping up drink prices about ¥10 with every floor you ascend. Morris mercifully avoids this temptation and charges a fair price for a decent coffee. They’re around the price of a Starbucks coffee, but doesn’t quite match them in quantity or quality.

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Morris specialises in hot and cold coffees, but for those who are peckish there is a small but delicious selection of sandwiches and pasta. But to be frank, it’s not for the sparse seating or the diminutive selection of food that most come here. It’s for the opportunity to bask and bathe in beautiful book and magazine design while enjoying a cup of joe with the Kyoto skyline just outside the window to gaze at should you feel the need for a ponder.

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Regardless of your views on the ideal size of a cup of coffee Of Rice and Zen can’t think of a better way to enjoy your latest manga than taking it up to the 8th floor and enjoying it over the Kyoto rooftops.

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Telephone: 075-255-3322
Opening hours: 11.00-20.00 (last order 19.30)
Price guide: Pasta lunch¥980〜coffee¥420〜parfait¥780

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